July 16, 2024

Travel permits and alien registration in Khartoum

We have been spoilt rotten here in Khartoum the past few days and have really enjoyed the rest. On Sunday Chris borrowed us his driver, Salim to take us to the Alien registration office in the city to register ourselves as required by all visitors to Sudan. It was so nice to be driven around in an air con vehicle and poor Salim ended up spending the whole day with us! The alien headquarters office was buzzing with people as it has been closed for the week of Eid. Salim whisked us through the admin process of getting forms filled in and paperwork pushed through a bunch of people all aiming for the same small window – this would have taken us ages. Then we had to wait as our passports and form disappeared and the paperwork started at the back… After the first one and a half hours Francois’ passport reappeared. You then have to go to another small window and make your payment of SDG 100 and then it disappears again. In the meanwhile every now and then someone comes up to the small window shouts out the names of the passports ready for collection and everybody huddles tightly together to push for their passports etc. It all looked too disorganised to me… but Salim was there to watch out for us so it really helped.

After another hour and still no sign of my passport I started to get worried. People were going on lunch and the process at the back slowed down. Eventually Francois’ passport came back out and it was ready with the little sticker with signature that it needed  – still no sign of mine. Salim pulled a few strings, went into the back office and reassured me that it was there and that we just have to wait – it will come. After another 30 minutes and no passport I was starting to get very frustrated – we have been here for more than three hours now. Eventually after Salim and I went back into the back office (they didn’t like this, but they are too polite to chase us away) we finally ushered the passport through its final stages – from the one desk to get a sticker, to lying on the desk another 20min, to going into the second office, where finally it got the little signature on it and into my hands – jippey! Poor Salim spent his whole day with us and we finally got back to the house at 15h00. It would have taken us twice the amount of time if we had to do it on our own!

We still needed a travel permit as well as this is required for all journeys undertaken outside of Sudan. So on Monday morning Chris organised that Salim help us with this too and this time it was quick. We had to explain where we will be travelling to and then we got a letter back in Arabic which we don’t understand a word of, but apparently this letter gives us permission to travel around in Sudan. This letter doesn’t cost anything and you only require a passport photo and copies of your passport and Sudanese Visa. I was very glad when the admin was done and dusted – it would have been a nightmare to figure out on us own – so thanks sooo much to Chris and Salim we owe you big time!

The evening was spent with Chris, Anita, Jan and Tarina having a BRAAI!

Lovely people
The food was amazing! Check this out:

Unbelievably good food
Francois has also been feeling a bit under the weather with a sore throat so the rest here has really helped us a lot. On Wednesday morning we will hit the road again northwards and will then resume our regular posts – sorry we have been very very lazy here in Khartoum! :o)

I love being in Anita and Chris’s home and it is so nice being surrounded by their cool pets. Anita yesterday came back from work with a small puppy!! Someone must have left her along the road and Anita could not leave here there. It seems as if this is not the first time, as they also have a kitten at the moment from the street that still needs a new home. Bashir, their 6 month old dog also came from the gutters. So in total I am surrounded by two dogs, a puppy, a kitten and a cat – feeling right at home here!

Here is the puppy:

and the sophisticted Armani, their cool cat:

It’s great being in a house:

A house

7 thoughts on “Travel permits and alien registration in Khartoum

  1. Oh so lucky julle twee!! Dit was nodig dat julle weer in ‘n familie en huis bederf word en dit nog met diere spesiaal vir jou Tania! Jou hande juk seker om daai dierbare klein hond op te laai. Voorspoed met die reis noordwaarts.

  2. Ek hoop jy voel al beter, Franski!? Ek’s bly julle het op die regte tyd by die regte mense gebly – daai hulp met die admin was goud! Ons het self gisteraand ‘n lekker ete by Talita-hulle gehad en lekker oor julle geskinder – ons (ek, Ji, Neelsie en die res) is lekker jaloers op julle. Maar, hey – Desember is om die draai, dan kuier ons GROOT! Veilig ry!

  3. Dear Francois and Tania,
    I have been following your site sinceyou left Cape Town,and must thank you for the enormous amount of enjoyment I have received reading your updates.In fact the first thing I do every day is log on to see if there is another instalment of your adventure.
    Do you plan on doing any lecture tours,recounting your epic trip,on your return to Cape Town?
    Francois, I am sure you must realise that you have a very special person in Tania,as not many young women would put up with the hardships that you have endured.But you both seem to have the right sort of attitude towards obstacles that come your way.Enjoy the rest of your journey.

  4. Se asseblief baaaaie dankie van my en Fanie af vir Anita en Chris vir hulle gasvryheid, die hulp met julle dokumente en al die lekker bederf (die kos laat my mond water!)Armani is ‘n “stunner!” ‘n Huis met sulke rustige diere kan net lekker wees! Groete en liefde en hoop julle is nou weer reg vir die langpad tot in Kairo.

  5. Firstly: Colin, they are two amazing kids, always positive and optimistic and as mother I’m very proud of them! Fr en T, Salim is een van Annie se ‘angels in flesh’ klink dit my. So ook Chris en Anita. Khartoum is jul oase in Afrika met boere-braaivleis, huisdiere, warm bad en sagte bed. Fr, ek hoop jy voel sterk genoeg vir die pad verder, ek hoop nie jy’t jou stem helemaal verloor in Khartoum nie! O ja, die Verster’s van Hermanus se groete – hoog beindruk met julle (foto’s gewys. Voorspoed met die laaste skof! Liefde, E

  6. Well done Francois and Tania. We are following your blog in Cape Town with great interest, as we are going up to Cairo in January and from there out to Singapore. Your comments are valuable, and we appreciate the time and trouble taken to post regularly. You just seem to be having fun, and we really admire you.
    I think we will need to look up your fixer friend in Khartoum!
    Go well,

  7. AS ek na julle twee se foto’s kyk, kan ek goed verstaan hoekom Francois soveel vinniger as Tania as ‘n alien geklassifiseer is! … Toemaar, dis darem ‘n baie aantreklike alien!

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