July 16, 2024

Tracking crocodiles with Juma

We got up early (by our standards) this morning and broke up camp and made coffee before meeting Juma at 7h00 for a walk. He wanted to show us the crocodiles and tell us the story of Chitaka Falls. He is a wonderfully gentle man as he explains life in Malawi and how you are a rich man if you only have a bicycle. He took his time to show us all the small things in the bush, including the trees and birds we saw on our way.

Here Juma and Tania cross Baboon Bridge:

Walking over Baboon Bridge
Juma told us the villagers used to cash 10 000 fish a day as they came washing down the falls after breeding. This was before the area was proclaimed a wildlife reserve. The falls were named after the large amount of fish that could be caught there.

Chitaka Falls
We walked for around two and a half hours and it was great to get some exercise and experience something different. Here Tania is checking out a crocodile in the pool next to where we camped last night:

Croc spottingAnd here is one of the BIG ones we saw:

Beeeegg croc
The walk took its toll on us and we had to have breakfast before we leave for Nkhata Bay. Bua River Lodge has a great wooden dining area and two lovely tented decks out on one of the islands (in the wet season) for which we’ll have to return one day.

Today’s amazing road winded over valleys and through rubber plantations, every now and again touching the lake shore, then snaking inland again. My only complaint was one BIG itch somewhere on my back. I tried my very best to ignore it, as it was unreachable under my backpack and jacket’s protective pad in the back. After ten, or so, excruciating minutes I pulled off the road and grabbed the first stick I could lay my hands on to alleviate the immense discomfort. Aaaah, bliss:

The BIG itch
We reached Mayoka Village (Nkhata Bay) at 15h30. Situated against a cliff overlooking the lake, this is the perfect place to hang for a while. We’ll cover it in tomorrow’s post, but are now off to a buffet chicken curry potjie… Cynthia from Mayoka offered us a bungalow for the price of a campsite, so they might have to chase us away. You’ll see why tomorrow…

10 thoughts on “Tracking crocodiles with Juma

  1. Hi Tania en Francois – ons is weer tuis na ‘n heerlike tydjie op die plaas. Het jul vervolgverhaal gemis. Is bly die petrol is toe nie ‘n probleem nie. Lyk my die “koperbaard” kom mooi aan. Voorspoed en geniet dit verder.

  2. Bhahaha! Daai foto van jou met die stok is maklim my favourite sover, seuna!!! 😀 Tania, moenie dat Frannie sy baard afskeer nie – ek brand om te sien hoe woes dit groei 😉

  3. Mensig, maar julle sien die mooiste plekke! Hierdie tante kry sommer lus om ook ‘n paar wiele te kry en die pad te vat! Dink julle so reis het ‘n ouderdomsbeperking?

  4. Fr, jy moes sommer die GoPro aan d punt gesit het vir die lekker krap dan kon jy sien wat het daar ingekruip. Onthou V & JI se stok-‘cam’? Tania, hoe kry jy dit reg om altyd so fris en vars te lyk asof jy nou net uit die stort kom?! 🙂

  5. Hi Julle
    Ek dink F gaan moelikheid kry later met daai baard.
    Die paspoort beheer gaan hom nie glo as hy se hy se hy is mos hy “kan julle nie sien nie”.

  6. Dit lyk so-oo lekker. Bua River Lodge lyk ‘n stunning plek om te kuier. Hoop die gejeuk/gekrap is beter vandag? Smeer maar samboksalf…V1x

  7. Foto’s en beskrywing van julle Malawi belewenis – MAGIC! Die baard lyk cool. Later – goeie camouflage, as julle gorillas gaan kyk en in Ethiopie by Lalibela gaan jy pass as profeet (koop net oppad vir jou ‘n lang jurk)xxxxx

  8. Tania jy lyk soos ‘n stout dogtertjie…. Frannie groei daai baard vir Movember! lyk asof die rug krap lekker was. Eon se hy wil ‘n skills challenge baan daar op die plaas kom uitle… veral met modder kolle en baie baie sand… ha ha!

  9. Well done on you progress so far. Your pics are brilliant – always with either yourselves or the bikes in the pic. Nice! All the best as you go – and keep the posts going!.

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